Often men will leave the choice of lining in a bespoke or made-to-measure suit to their tailor. The sartorially timorous gentlemen may be nervous to experiment with a colourful or graphic lining, and simply opt for a tone similar to the suiting cloth. That’s fine, if you want a garment to appear as sober as possible. But it squanders a potent opportunity for self-expression.
Why not fully explore the numerous avenues of customisation available when commissioning tailored apparel? Tailoring that is yours and yours alone should not only be cut to your unique measurements and build; it should also be made entirely in the style of your choosing. You pick whether it’ll be single or double-breasted (or even Mandarin collar, or a safari jacket). You decide the weight, colour, pattern and composition of the suiting or jacketing fabric. Equally, one of the joys of visiting a tailor is that you are empowered to select a unique lining.
Use your lining to subtly indicate a passion, personality trait or hobby. OP204 Lawn Tennis is a personal favorite.
Taking it personally
Choosing a vibrant hue, a clever graphic or pattern for a custom suit’s lining presents the customer with a chance to inject personality and individuality into their suit, sports coat or blazer. The lining can be a reflection of their interests and passions, with a motif hinting at a love for golf (OP194 Augusta), for example, or tennis (OP204 Lawn Tennis) or motorsports (OP203 Monaco). The keen traveller might select a lining indicating his fascination with India (OP200 Taj), Japan (OP196 Kirin) or Africa (OP214 Sati).
An enthusiastic consumer of whisky or wine may showcase his intoxicating tastes with a suitably sybaritic visual (OP206 Cuba & OP207 The Cellar). The lawyer by day, rocker by night could display his musical predilections, ever so subtly, with a skull-emblazoned lining (OP135 Bone Sapphire). The options are endless.
OP184 Dragon King is one of our newest linings, created to celebrate the current Year of the Dragon.
Speaking of subtlety, that’s the great thing about an extraordinary lining — it isn’t obvious. It’s not like wearing a brazenly printed t-shirt that proclaims your fandom of a certain band or brand. Most of the time, it’s hidden away behind your securely fastened jacket, only peeking out when your reach inside to retrieve a wallet or phone. It adds an element of surprise — and dare we say it, fun — to what may otherwise appear a rather traditional and restrained garment. It can be a conversation-starter.
A remarkable success, Paladino’s collection of vibrant AURA linings continues to grow. Look out for regular new additions to the range
Unforgettable details
A unique lining might have a link or relevance to the occasion for which the suit was commissioned — something significant like a wedding or milestone birthday, for instance — transforming the garment into a potent keepsake. Or you could simply go with something that serves no other purpose than to look cool, bringing visual interest: a paisley or floral pattern, perhaps.
Officine Paladino’s AURA linings have proven tremendously popular, so much so that we’ve now expanded the collection with an array of vibrant new designs. (Stay tuned for further additions to the collection in future.) Our AURA linings are made in Italy in 100 percent viscose cloth. We consider this superior to the other common lining fabrics, cupro (also known by the trademark Bemberg) and silk, because we find that viscose possesses better ventilation and wears more hardily than those alternative cloths, while remaining soft and supple.
A lining will inevitably make a tailored garment a little warmer, but even in the hottest countries, experienced tailors will tell you that dispensing with a lining altogether is inadvisable. A lining helps a tailored garment slip off and on more smoothly, ensures that it hangs properly and doesn’t get caught on the shirt worn underneath, and lends a fluidity to the clothing when the wearer is in motion. It also helps protect the more expensive and delicate external cloth from perspiration stains.
Our visualisation feature provides the opportunity to preview the look of a lining. This iteration (OP199 Bengal) displays a fascination with India.
Instead of eschewing lining, sartorial aficionados in hot or tropical countries tend to request half-lined, where the sleeves and front of the jacket’s interior are lined and only the lower part of the back of the jacket is left unlined, or quarter lined, where just the sleeves and the top half of the jacket’s back are lined.
Line it up
Whether you pick one of these options or opt for fully lined, be sure to choose a lining in a colour and pattern that works in harmony with the suiting cloth — whether through contrast or similarities, aesthetic or theme. To help you make that choice, our innovative visualisation feature allows you to see how a lining will look when used on a fully-lined jacket.
Read our guide on how to select a lining that works beautifully with your next custom-tailored commission, and embrace the infinite opportunities for self-expression that this vital sartorial tool provides.
