Cotton fabrics are the most popular tailoring option for summertime. The plant fibre is light and breathable, quick drying, and has plenty of natural stretch. Plus, cotton fabrics absorb dye colours well, making it appealing to those who enjoy bold tailoring looks. Cotton fabrics are woven in three main weaving styles: plain weave, twill weave for more sturdy fabrics like gabardine, and satin weave, which offers a very soft touch and glossy look.
Our new cotton fabrics offer a wide selection of weaves, finishes, and colour options. Image by Viash Shah for Officine Paladino.
The final stage of production is the finishing process, where different types of treatments are applied. Our latest lookbook, The Cotton Edit, showcases several different finishes of cottons. Bleaching the fabric removes impurities and creates a consistently coloured fabric. Mercerisation creates even and straight yarns, which can then be pressed to shrink and deliver a smooth fabric with a silky sheen. Calendering presses cotton cloth between heated rollers, to further smoothen the surface of the fabric. And there’s brushing, where a fine metal brush (or wire brush) is run over one side of the cotton fabric.
A closeup of the brushed cotton fabric after it has gone through the process. Shown here is (from left) OP1961 Ecru, OP1967 Willow, OP1965 Cerulean Blue, OP1964 Burnt Orange, OP1963 Chocolate, OP1962 Mocha, and OP1966 Graphite (above). Image by Viash for Officine Paladino.
The brush pulls fine fibres from the fabric surface creating a soft, fuzzy touch that glides over the skin. At the same time, it also creates a more distinct warp pattern running diagonally across the fabric almost like a grooved texture in the fabric. Brushed cotton feels soft and comfy, and it has improved insulation over the smooth cotton fabrics because the fine hairs that are teased out trap air. It can also have some moisture wicking effect, rather similar to wools, and this helps to keep the body cool as it is less absorbent of sweat.
What does a brushed suit look like? The Anthology from Hong Kong shows us. Image courtesy of The Anthology.
The grooved texture of a brushed cotton fabric has a rugged, workwear-like look to it. That makes it a great choice for an everyday suit or a work-style jacket. Chore coats are often made with brushed cottons, and bears a slight resemblance to corduroy, but in a much more sophisticated manner. The soft, tactile feel of brushed cottons make them ideal for pants or denim-like bottoms, that we have tailored ourselves. The brushed cotton fabric feels like a stretch denim fabric that has been well-worn and washed repeatedly to have that lived-in feel, but retaining its vibrant colour and quality.
Brushed cottons such as our OP1964 Burnt Orange or OP1961 Ecru are in a medium-weight cotton that gives plenty of structure and a good handle, with an extremely soft touch and durability.
Officine Paladino OP1961 Ecru is tailored with a contrast stitch, like a denim fabric.
Depending on how it’s tailored, brushed cotton fabrics are suitable for wear throughout most of the year, save for the most intense parts of summer or winter, perhaps. They are excellent choices for casual or regular tailoring, but Hong Kong tailors The Anthology shows us that they can be excellent as formally-cut suiting as well.
Test out our brushed cotton fabrics with our Styling Tool and see how it will appear before going to our partner tailors to get it realised. You can browse the entire Cotton Edit lookbook and Style Guide now; tell us which is your favourite!
