Jacketing and suiting fabrics are often chosen based on their purpose and fabric qualities. For example, pure wool fabrics are often used for suiting in cooler seasons as wool is a great insulator. But in order to give these yarns more versatility, fabric makers will combine them with other textiles to create fabrics with additional qualities. You can learn more about different wool blends here.
One of our favourite blends is a combination of wool, silk and linen. These are one of the most versatile in the industry. A wool-silk-linen blend will look good even after years of use, and is incredibly comfortable to wear all year round.
Fabric blends are described based on their composition. For example, the above fabric, Agean OP 2320 is 55% wool, with 23% silk and 22% linen. That’s why it’s described as a wool-silk-linen blend. If it was a silk-led fabric, it would be silk-wool-linen or silk-linen-wool.
The fabric composition as well as its weave determines how it behaves and the qualities that it possesses. As you can see up close, Aegean OP 2320 is made up of light and dark yarns that create a wave-like look in the primarily-blue fabric. This gives it a texture and depth that’s wonderful to see from far and up close. It also reminds us of the Aegean sea, which is what inspired its name.
With more wool in its composition, it has more of the insulating and handle of a wool jacket. This means that a jacket made with this fabric will drape well on the body. It also incorporates some of the sheen and softness that silk has, which gives this fabric a shine and vivid colouring. It also has linen, which gives it added breathability and a crisp texture and enhances its durability. This is a fabric that remains comfortable during the cool seasons, and can be worn over and over without losing its form or elegance.
A silk-led fabric creates a very different experience compared with the previous example. Marrakech OP 2311 has 37% silk, with 33% linen and 30% wool. Using more silk and linen in the mix gives this fabric a telling luminous quality. If you’re looking for a fabric that will immediately catch the attention of the room, this is a blend that works well.
Not only do the colours appear even more vivid, a greater proportion of linen means this is a lightweight and very breathable fabric. It retains the elasticity of high-twist wool, which means it will stretch and can therefore move easily. If you have an active daily lifestyle, whether it’s cycling to work or enjoying afternoon walks, here’s a fabric that’s perfect for you. For spring and summer, this is an excellent fabric blend to consider.
High wool composition blends
With high wool composition blends, the practical qualities of wool are central to its performance. High-twist is elastic, crease repellent, can be woven tightly or loosely depending on preference, and offers a great handle. It’s even naturally water repellent to some degree. Because of this, a fabric like Java OP 2222, which has 68% wool, is practical and useful for all seasons.
Combining it with some silk and linen gives the fabric a hint of glossiness. Using a subtle check pattern with a burnt sienna-coloured yarn, this has produced a fabric with a sophisticated look and feel. A high wool composition makes the fabric ideal for spring, fall or even winter, and offers greater comfort against the skin thanks to the silk and linen yarns that are combined in the cloth.
Find the right mix
To find the right composition blend for your jacketing needs, consider the following:
- Do you find wool fabrics, even soft touch wool, to be itchy? If so, pick a composition with less wool and more silk in it.
- What season or weather is prevalent in your region, when you wear a jacket? For hot and humid weather, consider a high linen or silk composition. If it’s wet and cold, consider a high wool mix.
- What sort of lifestyle do you lead? If you have a more active lifestyle, consider a high wool and silk mix, as linen does not stretch well.
- What occasions do you wear a jacket for? If you’re in a jacket for important events, a high silk composition offers a natural sheen to the fabric.
Explore our complete range of wool, silk and linen blend fabrics in our collection. Feel free to contact us if you have further queries on the types of qualities different wool-silk-linen blend fabrics have as well. Or reach out to a tailor near you to learn about the different fabric mixes and what will suit your style best.